Choosing the Right Material

Before an outfit comes together, there's a step that almost no one notices.

At that point, there are still no patterns, no sewing, and no assembly.

Just a few pieces of fabric laid out on a table.

We observe them. We touch them. We bend them. We watch how they react to light.

Because before it becomes an outfit, every design begins with a fundamental question: Which fabric best achieves the result we’re looking for?

At Adegan's Armory, this kind of thinking is part of everyday life in the workshop. Yet it often goes unnoticed once the piece is finished.

With "Behind the Scenes at Adegan's Armory," we want to give you a glimpse into the workshop and share some of the steps that shape a creation long before the first stitch is sewn.

Today, let's focus on the one that guides all the others: choosing the fabric.

A philosophy that guides each of our creations

Since Adegan's Armory was founded, the garments in our collection have been made from classic, 100% natural linen.

This choice was never made at random. We were looking for a natural material with an authentic look, one that was lightweight and versatile enough to complement a variety of designs.

But our work has never been limited to this subject alone.

The custom designs created in our workshop have regularly led us to work with other textiles, selected based on the needs and desired look of each project.

Because changing the fabric can transform an outfit much more than you might think.

Texture influences a fabric’s appearance. Thickness and weave affect its structure and drape. The fabric’s texture changes the way light highlights its volume. The fabric’s properties also affect comfort and the way the garment moves with the body.

Two fabrics of nearly identical colors can thus produce very different results once they are processed.

That's the whole point of the selection process carried out in advance at a garment factory.

At first glance, they look alike…

To illustrate this point, we have selected three fabrics in shades that are intentionally very similar.

At first glance, their differences seem minor.

But if we set aside the color for a moment, our gaze begins to linger on something else.

The plot.

The terrain.

Irregularities.

The way light hits the surface.

And suddenly, the three fabrics no longer seem exactly the same.

That's exactly what we're looking for when we study a subject: to understand its nature before imagining what it might become.

Three Materials, Three Personalities

Classic Linen

The first one is the one we know best.

This 100% natural linen fabric is currently used to make the outfits in our collection.

Its weave is visible yet remains relatively even. Its texture lends the fabric the distinctive character of natural linen without overshadowing the silhouette or the design details.

Lightweight and versatile, it has been a staple fabric for our outfits since the studio's inception.

But the same intention may sometimes call for a different expression.

That's where exploring other textiles becomes interesting.

Flax Weathered

Alongside classic linen, " Weathered " linen quickly reveals a different character.

It is thicker and has a more pronounced texture.

Its texture creates a more pronounced relief and catches the light differently. Even in a shade very similar to that of classic linen, the visual impression is different.

The material seems rougher, more irregular, with a character that is immediately apparent.

That doesn't mean it's better or worse than traditional linen.

It simply offers a different visual language.

And depending on the intent behind a creation, this difference can become particularly interesting.

Embossed fabric

The third fabric differs even more from the traditional look of linen.

Its distinctive feature is right there on the surface: the embossed fabric has a uniform texture that creates small ripples in the material.

This texture immediately transforms its relationship with light.

The raised and recessed areas naturally create subtle variations in shadow. Even with a very subdued color, this makes the surface appear more vibrant.

This is a good example of what a fabric can bring to a design without relying on a printed pattern or additional decorative elements.

Sometimes, the texture itself becomes a key element of the outfit.

There is no such thing as a perfect material

When you see several fabrics side by side, it's very tempting to try to figure out which one is the best.

In our work, we prefer to frame the question differently:

Which fabric is best suited for this project?

There is no single material that is perfect for all projects.

One fabric might be chosen for its lightness. Another for its texture. Yet another for the way it drapes or how its texture complements a silhouette.

The choice therefore always depends on the desired result.

That is also why working with the materials comes so early in our artisanal manufacturing process.

Before cutting, take a moment to observe.

Before assembling, it is important to understand how the fabric behaves.

Before thinking about the finishing touches, you need to know which material will give your creation the look you're after.

These are decisions that become almost invisible when you look at a finished outfit.

And yet, they play a direct role in its outcome.

A future creation begins here

We have brought these three subjects together today not just to point out their differences.

This selection is part of a discussion about a future project by Adegan's Armory.

We won't reveal any more than that for now.

What interests us today is precisely this stage: the one where the project still exists in the form of ideas, materials, and possibilities.

It's also a way to showcase another aspect of our work.

Of course, we showcase many of our finished creations. But behind each one lie decisions, trials, and sometimes hesitations that are never apparent in the final result.

Choosing a natural fabric—its feel, its thickness, its weave, or simply the way it catches the light—are all part of these subtle decisions.

That's where part of the craftsmanship begins.

Long before the first stitch.

Go Behind the Scenes at Adegan's Armory

Sharing a behind-the-scenes look at the workshop also shows that the process of making an outfit doesn't begin the moment the fabric goes under the sewing machine.

It begins with observation.

Through touch.

Through materials placed side by side and a question that keeps coming up:

Which one will best tell the story we want to create?

The project this reflection is intended for will remain in the workshop for a while longer.

When it's ready to be unveiled, we'll be happy to show you more.

In the meantime, you can check out the outfits currently available at Adegan's Armory, follow our work on social media, and come back to browse "Behind the Scenes at Adegan's Armory " when we have a new aspect of our work to share.

Because behind every stitch, every detail, and every finish, there is always a fabric.

And the time it takes to choose the right one.